1996 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases 'Grand Vin de Leoville'

"I think we can officially declare 25+ years as being the sweet spot for Léoville Las Cases - at least in slow-ageing vintages such as 1996, which is so perfectly suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. Still full-bodied and concentrated even now, but generous also, with cassis, tobacco and cigarbox smoke softening the edges of flint-chiselled tannic frame. As I said during the Berry Bros supper where we opened this wine, Las Cases can be almost Burgundian-like in how elusive it is (in this case because of how stubborn and tannic it can prove), but when you get the one bottle that sings, it's all worth it. This more than proves the point. Michel Delon owner at the time." - 100/100 Jane Anson