1990 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (VHS)

"While I entertained higher expectations of the 1989, it was in fact the 1990 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru that emerged as the wine of the tasting, blossoming in the glass with a complex bouquet of confit lemon, orange rind, dried white flowers, pastry cream, warm bread and vanilla pod. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny textured and enveloping, with broad shoulders, a lively spine of acidity and superb amplitude and concentration, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Powerful and strikingly complete, this is a Chevalier that more than nods to Montrachet in style. But by the numbers alone, it was cropped at 57 hectoliters per hectare and finished up with 14.1% alcohol and pH 3.23. This is by some margin the finest bottle of Leflaive's 1990 Chevalier-Montrachet that I've encountered." 98/100 - Wine Advocate